Friday 23 October 2015

120 Years of Vogue


Documentary 
Gionson.D, 2015, In Vogue - The Editors Eye, Viewed 20th Oct 2015, Available from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbTHTmRd94E

The first edition of Vogue was published in 1892 and in 2012 it celebrated its 120th anniversary. Vogue began as a social magazine featuring mainly illustrations. In 1909 it began featuring womens fashion and featured its first photo cover. In 1932 it featured its first coloured photo cover.
Vogue has always used fashion to reflect the times, the fashion editors are responsible for creating the images published in the magazine.
Over the years vogue has had many fashion editors;

  • Babs Simpson -  fashion editor from 1947-1972. One of the most famous shoots Babs is responsible for feature some of the last shots ever taken of Marilyn Monroe wearing Christian Dior in 1962. These photographs were taken by Bert Stein.
    Marilyn - Bart Stein 1962
    Marilyn - Bart Stein 1962
    Marilyn - Bart Stein 1962
  • Grace Coddington - fashion editor 1988-1995, Creative Director 1995-Present. One of Grace's most famous shoots has to be the 'Alice in Wonderland edition' from 2003, she persuaded the designers to feature in the shoot as characters; Christian Lacroix was the march hare, Tom Ford the White Rabbit, Marc Jacobs played the caterpillar, Stephan Jones was the mad hatter, John Galliano the queen of hearts and Viktor and Rolf were Tweedledum and Tweedledee Whilst model Natalia Vodianova was Alice. The shoot was photographed by Annie Leibovitz. 
  • Mad Hatters Tea Party - Annie  Leibovitz -2003



    Queen of Hearts - Annie Leibovitz 2003 
    The Blue Caterpillar - Annie Leibovitz 2003

    Tweedledum & Tweedledee - Annie Leibovitz 2003
    I absolutely love this photoshoot, it came straight from the pages of the novel by Lewis Carrol, yet the modern theme makes it look like it inspired the Tim Burton film remake released in 2010.

  • Tonne Goodman - fashion editor from 1999 - present. I think one of tonnes most famous shoots has to be the 'Power issue' featuring Lady Gaga from March 2011. This shoot was photographed by Mario Testing at the Royal Museum of Fine Arts in Belgium in November 2010. The makeup artist on this shoot was Linda Castello and the outfits are by designers; Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton and Haider Ackermann.
Lady Gaga, Mario Testino, 2011
Lady Gaga, Mario Testino, 2011
Lady Gaga, Mario Testino, 2011
  • Phyllis Posnick - executive fashion editor 1987 - present. Phyllis manages to create some incredible fashion images using everyday issues and objects. One of the most well known features would probably be 'cult cream' an article about woman and expensive moisturisers featured in the June edition 1996. This shoot was photographed by Irving Penn. 'Pace/Macgill Gallery, 2013, Irving Penn - On Assignment, Viewed 23rd Oct 2015, http://www.pacemacgill.com/penn_wall_texts.php?item=121#posnick'
    Inspired, Irving Penn, 1996

Another well known piece of Phyllis work is an article on the fear of ageing in this generation called 'Fast Forward'. I really love this shoot, although its pretty creepy it makes you think about what people are willing to go through in order to stay looking younger. 'This new face of indeterminate age is sculpted with heavy handed injectables and surgical nips. Forty years olds look twenty and twenty year olds look forty...It's not ageless; it's space age.' The vogue archive, 2012, Fashion and Features - Fast Forward, viewed 23rd  Oct 2015http://search.proquest.com/docview/1037257759?accountid=13969
The Valley of Dolls, Steven Klein, 2012

The Valley of Dolls, Steven Klein, 2012


















  • Carylne Cerf De Dudzeele - fashion editor 1988. Carylne is responsible for Anna Wintours most iconic cover by styling model Michaela Bercu in an embellished Christian LaCroix couture top and Guess jeans.
Vogue cover, November 1988






















  • Polly Mellen - fashion editor from 1966-1991. Polly Mellen is responsible for some of Vogues most controversial shoots. 'Bathhouse' became a scandal to vogue reader causing many to pull their subscription as they related the images to Dachau (concentration camp) and drug addicts. The shoot took place at Asser Levy Bath House, New York by photographer Deborah Turbeville. 

Bathhouse, Deborah Turbeville, Vogue 1975

Bathhouse, Deborah Turbeville, Vogue 1975

Bathhouse, Deborah Turbeville, Vogue 1975









In 1966 Vogue did something no-one had done before sending a team to Japan during the winter to shoot some amazing fashion shots. It was one of Pollys fist assignments for vogue, it was a five week trip with supermodel Veruschka and photographer Richard Avedon. Known as 'The Great Fur Caravan' the shoot was dedicated to the beauty of fur. 'A.G.Nauia.Couiure, n.d, Veruscha in perhaps the worlds most epic fashion story, Viewed 23rd Oct 2015, http://agnautacouture.com/2014/07/13/veruschka-in-perhaps-the-most-epic-fashion-story/


The Great Fur Caravan, Richard Avedon, 1996
The Great Fur Caravan, Richard Avedon, 1996





















In 1981 Mellen was part of a shoot featuring Nastassja Kinski, on talking to the actress she learned she loved animals, especially snakes, resulting in this famous images of Kinski wearing a snake that polly liked to think was 'kissing her ear'. It illustrates fashion is more than just clothes.

Nastassja Kinski, Richard Avedon, 1981