Monday 5 October 2015

Photographer Research

Cecil Beaton - 1904-1980
Beaton was best know for is work with Vogue and Vanity Fair in the 20's. He was renowned for his unique style of posing models and usual backgrounds. He went on to become an award winning costume designer for theatre. As a child Beaton loved the postcards of society ladies. When he received his first camera at 11 he got his sisters to pose for photos. Pursuing his interest in photography Beaton sent photos to editors and was eventually hired by Vanity Fair and Vogue. His first collection of work was published 'The Book of Beauty' in 1930. He photographed the wedding of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor in 1937 and Queen Elizabeth in 1939. Beaton recorded the fighting in England, Africa and the Middle East during World War II where he captured a photo of a 3yr old air raid victim which has become one of his most well known pieces. In 1972 Beaton was knighted by Queen Elizabeth II.
Below are some of his images.
My Fair Lady, 1963

Oh What A Lovely War, 1940

Marilyn Monroe, Feb. 22, 1956
Twiggy, 1967




















Erwin Blumenfeld - 1897-1969
Blumenfeld was best know for his work in the fashion industry between the 1940's and 50's. He got his first camera in 1908 and began taking photos and developing. In 1913 he started an apprenticeship with Sclochauer and Moses. In 1932 he opened his own store selling handbags in Amsterdam, 'Fox Leather Company'. In 1932 Blumenfeld found a dark room fully equipped and began photographing some of the store clients. In 1936 he moved to Paris where he was commissioned to make portraits of people in the art world such as Henri Matisse, during this time he also took images of photographers such as Cecil Beaton. Beaton liked his work and in 1937 got him a contract with Vogue France. In 1941 he moved to New York where he was hired by Harpers Bazaar, he worked with them for 3years before working as a freelancer for Vogue America. Over the next 15 years his work was on the cover and featured in many other magazines such as Look and Life. By 1950 Bulmenfeld was reported to be the highest paid photographer around the world.
Vogue cover, 1950
Below are some of his images.
Lisa Fossagrives, Eiffel Tower, 1939


Evelyn Tripp, 1956


Richard Avedon- 1923-2004
Avedon had an interest in photography from the age of 12. He joined the army during World War II as Photographers Mate identifying photographs. After 2years he left to work as a professional photographer creating fashion images and studying art. At 22 he began working as a freelance photographer for Harpar's Bazaar photographing models on the street, in nightclubs, at the circus, at the beach and many other locations. This inventive and resourcefulness became the mark of his work. Avedon was fascinated by the way photography could capture personality and evoke the life of his models, he thought poses, attitudes, hairstyles, clothing and accessories where all vital elements of an image. In 1965 he left Harpers Bazaar and joined Vogue where he worked for 20years. Avedon is credited for removing the line between 'art' and 'commercial photography'. 
Below are some of his images.
Dovima With Elephants, 1955

Carmen in Cardin, 1957
Harper's Bazaar, 1955
















David Bailey - 1938 
In 1959 Bailey took an apprenticeship at the John French Studio where he became involved in fashion photography. In 1960 he began to photograph for British Vogue, he worked here for 15 years firstly as staff then as a freelancer. Baileys work is known for the stark backgrounds and the dramatic lighting effects, he transformed British fashion and celebrity photography from chic and reserved into something youthful and direct. In 1972 he began publishing the fashion magazine Ritz.
Below are some of his images.


Cara Delevigne - Vogue Australia
Jean Shrimpton, 1962

Jean Shrimpton, 1965














Helmut Newton -1920-2004
Newton revolutionised fashion photography, his bold, sensual, visually arresting portrayal of woman shot with huge technical detail put him way ahead of his times and his work is more appreciated today than in his lifetime. Newtons interest in photography began at the age of 12 after receiving his first camera. After serving in the Australian army for 5years during the war, Newton started a photography studio in Melbourne and worked on fashion photography. Over 15years he got a reputation for himself and his photos were featured in British Vogue in 1956, He then prepared to  move to London after they offered him a job. He decided against this and instead moved to Paris before shortly returning to Melbourne. In 1961he returned to Paris after landed a job with French Vogue gaining him international recognition and fame. He worked for many other magazines such as Harpers Bazaar, Queen, Marie Claire, Elle, Playboy and different editions of Vogue.
Below are some of his images.
Paris, 1976



Vogue France, 1975





Madonna 
1975




















Guy Bourdin - 1928-1991
As a painter Bourdin was able to create images that contained fascinating compositions both in black and white and colour. He changed fashion photography by creating images that told stories, he used his images to send out his message exploring a world between the absurd and sublime using colour to the maximum with intense saturation and textures. Bourdin launched his career in the 1950's taking black and whites for Vogue Paris. By late 1970 he had captured the imagination of a whole generation. Bourdin's work influenced many other artists, photographers and filmmakers.
Below are some of his images.


Charles Jourdan, 1978


Vogue, 1969
Charles Jourdan, 1978











Herb Ritts - 1952-2002
Ritts began in photography career in the 70's whilst on a road trip, he photographs his friend Richard Gere, an aspiring actor. The photos were published in Vogue and Esquire launching both men's careers. In 1979 Ritts did his first fashion shoot for italian Bazaar, this opened the doors of the fashion world to him. Over the years he gained a reputation as a master of art and commercial photography. He took portraits and editorial fashion images for Vogue, Vanity Fair and Rolling Stone as well as creating advertisement campaigns for Calvin Klein, Chanel, Gianni Versace, Levi's, Pirelli, Ralph Lauren. Ritts work contains strong form and clean lines, this simplicity allowed his images to be read and felt instantly. It was common for his work to challenge conventional notions of gender and race. He also made a mark on the music industry directing videos for artists such as Michael Jackson.
Below are some of his images.
Cindy Crawford, 1994
Versace, 1990

Tyra Banks 


Madonna

George Hurrell - 1904-1992 
Burrell is best known for his hollywood glamour photography between the 1930's and 40's. As a boy Hurrell wanted to be an artist, it was at art school he was introduced to photography having to take images to reference whilst painting. In 1928 he took a photo for a friend, Florence Pancho, flying application, women were discouraged from flying at this time so she dressed up a man. Hurrell didnt like making his friend look so unkept for this photo and insisted on taking some other photos of her.  Pancho went on to become hollywoods first female stunt pilot. Panchos good friend Ramon Novarro a big movie star at MGM needed some publicity photos taken and Pancho insisted he used Hurrell. Navarro had many photos taken by Hurrell and in 1929 Hurrell was offered a job with MGM as a portrait photographer.
Norma Shearer 
Below are some of his images.
Charles Boyer, 1938

Dorothy Lamour 

Brooke Shields 














Patrick Demarchelier - 1943
Demarchelier is one of the worlds most coveted fashion photographers. He received his first camera ages 17 before moving to Paris aged 20 to work in a photography lab. Later he became an assistant to a photographer who shot film magazine covers before the assistant to Hans Feurer, Vogue photographer. During this time he worked with Grace Coddington through her time at British Vogue, this help launched his career. In 1975 after having gained a reputation as a respected fashion photographer in France Demarchelier moved to New York working as a freelancer. His work has since been featured in many magazine, he has done many covers for Vogue and shot campaigns for huge designers such as Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Chanel, Elizabeth Arden, Dior, Giorgio Armani and Louis Vuitton. In 1989 he was contracted as Princess Diana's personal photographer.
Below are some of his images.
Linda Evangelista, 1992
Vogue 



Cara Delevingne, Vogue China, 2013 

Mario Testino - 1954
Testino is one of the worlds most popular fashion and portrait photographers. His work has featured in international magazines such as Vogue, Vanity Fair and GQ. He has also created campaign images for designers such as Gucci, Burberry, Versace, Michael Kors, Chanel, Estee Lauder and Landcome. Eighteen exhibitions and over sixteen books of his work have been published. His work is know for bringing out the humanity in the subject. Some of Testino's best known work is his series of Diana, Princess of Wales in 1977, he was also the official portrait photographer for the engagement of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge in 2010. In July 2015 he took the official photographs of the christening of Princess Charlotte of Cambridge.
Princess Diana, 1997
Below are some of his images.
Vogue Japan


Cara Delevingne, Allure 2014

















Rankin - 1966 
Rankin is known for his compelling portraiture and distinctive style. He first made a name for himself in publishing in 1992, providing a platform form emerging stylists, designers, photographers and writers. Since he has created huge advertising campaigns for brands such as Nike, Dove and Pantene, he has also shot covers for huge magazines such as Elle, Harpers Bazaar, GQ, German Vogue and Rolling Stone. His work questions social normality and ideas of beauty, in lat 2000 he published the 'Heteroclite quarterly Rank' an experimental anti-fashion magazine celebrating the unconventional. In the 90's Rankin became known for his portraiture of bands, artists, supermodels and politicians. He recently work with makeup artist Alex Box creating her new book.
Below are some of his images.


Rosie Huntington Whitely 




Alex Box 





















Ellen Von Unwerth - 1954
Ellen is photographer and director best known for specialising in femininity. She was discovered after she fist photographed Claudia Schiffer, since her work has been in magazines such as Vogue, Vanity Fair, Interview and The Face and she has published several books. She took promotional shots for Duran Duran from 1994-1997 and has shot many album covers such as 'Janet Jackson - The Velvet Rope, 1997' 'Britney Spears - Blackout, 2007' and 'Rihanna - Talk that Talk'.
Below are some of her images.

Guess, 2011

Guess, 2011

Camille Rowe, 2012